Collar and method of making the same



Y H. GLEEKMAN COLLAR AND METHOD 0F MAKING THE SAME AJah,v 25, 1944.

Filed April 7, -133455 2 l'xeetsfsheei.- 1

\nvenov. -GleeKmcxn July 25, 1944. v H. GLEEKMAN 2,354,205

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April '7, 1943 2 Sheets-Sheet2 lnvenor. Hurry G\eeKmc1 n by @MME-mr Patented July 25, 1944 OFFICECOLLAR AND METHOD F MAKING THE SAME Harry Gleekman, Boston, Mass.

Application April 7, 1943, Serial No. 482,119

7 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in collars for shirts and thegeneral object of the invention is to provide a collar which willmaintain its proper shape notwithstanding repeated laundering of thecollar.

Usual commercial constructions are such that when permanently secured tothe shirt or def Usually collars are so constructed that when.

worn the upper edges of the ends of the collar become quite widelyseparated by the tie which underlies the ends of the collar.

A further object of the invention is to provide a collar in which theupper edges of the ends will abut or at least lie in very closeproximity to each other notwithstanding the presence of the tietherebeneath.

Another object of the invention is to provide a method of constructing acollar oi the character above described fabricated from an outside orface section and an inside section, preferably with the liningtherebetween, and in which the outer section is of sufilciently greaterfullness to counteract the tendency of the collar to curve concavelyoutwardly and upwardly.

These and other objects and features of the invention will more fullyappear from the following description and the accompanying drawings andwill be particularly pointed out in the claims.

The drawings illustrate a collar cf the character above described, theseveral members thereof, and the manner in which they are assembled.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a collar embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevation of the outside or face section of the collar;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the inside section of the collar illustrating,in conjunction with Fig. 2, by dotted lines, its lesser length;

Fig. 4 is a. plan view of the lining of the collar having fabricreenforcements stitched to it by gathering stitches;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the members of the collar superimposed forpreliminary basting of the outer face section to the inner section, itslining and reenforcement, corner portions of the inner section, thelining and the reenforcement being turned upwardly to illustrate themanner in which they are superimposed;

Fig. 6 is a vertical sectional view on line 6 6 Fig. 5, illustrating themanner in which the reenforcing section is secured to the inner sectionand the .manner in which the inner section, lining, and outer sectionare basted together adjacent the lower edge thereof;

Fig. 7 is a detail view of part of an end portion oi' a collarillustrating the manner in which the members oi the collar are stitchedtogether in assembled relation;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view on line 8-8 Fig. 7 showing the manner inwhich the outside of the collar is folded upon the basting seam andsecured thereto by gathering stitches for the inner section whichprevent the collar from concavely curving outwardly and upwardly.

Fig. 9 is an inside view oi' an end portion of the finished collarshowing the manner in which the members of the band are stitchedtogether and to the collar and the construction of the band which holdsthe upper edges of the collar in abutment or in close proximity; and IFig. l0 is a view of an end portion of the lining of the collar having amodied form of reenforcement applied thereto.

The collar embodying the present invention is preferably, but notnecessarily. ci the soft collar type adapted to form a part of acomplete shirt or which may be in the form of a separate collar adaptedto be detachably buttoned upon the collar band of the shirt.

The collar comprises an outside or face section and an inside section ofsubstantially shorter length and narrower width so secured to theoutside or face section as to provide greater fullness in the latterwhich will prevent outward and upward curling of the points or sideportions of the collar. The collar desirably is provided with a liningor stiiening member which may in turn be supplemented by suitablereenforcing means of the character hereinafter described.

In order clearly to describe the construction of the collar the stepsol' its manufacture will first be described.

The rst step comprises cutting an outside section l 'of suitable lengthand style, such for example, as a fifteen inch collar, which is shown inthe drawings on a somewhat reduced scale in Fig. 2. Second, cutting theinside section 2 of the collar, which, as illustrated in Fig. 3,y iscomplementary to but of substantially less width and length than theoutside section I. Third, cutting a lining 3, which desirably is made ofcanvas, or

The reenforcements l are of the same contouras that of the lining butconsiderably narrower and are spaced equal distances from the ends andedges of the lining and desirably are secured to the lining by lines ofgathering stitches which are parallel to and suitably spaced from theedges of the reenforcement. The term gathering stitches" is used hereinas defining machinemade stitches of the lock stitch type formed duringthe penetration of the needle thread through the superimposed layers incooperation with feeding mechanism engaging the outer layer, the tensionon the needle thread being sumciently greater than the tension on thelocking thread gradually to contract the layer which is engaged by theIneedle thread and particularly when properly manipulated by the machineoperator to prvide greater fullness in the layer which is engaged by thefeeding mechanism.

The reenforcing member 4 may be further. secured to the canvas liningby'one or more lines of preferably gathering stitches 6.

When the parts are thus formed the outside face section and the liningwith its reenforcement are superimposed upon the inside layer asillustrated in Fig. 5 and basted together by a line of stitching 1 inclose proximity to the lower edges thereof, as illustrated in Fig. 6.

The inside layer 2 is thereupon turned or folded upon the basting seam'I in contact with the reenforcement 4, as illustrated in Fig. 8. Theedges of the ends of the collar are hemmed together in the usual mannerand a line of gathering stitching 8 is stitched in proximity to thelower edge of the collar and also at a preferably equal distance fromthe ends of the collar. In thus stitching the parts together the needleis caused to penetrate through the inside layer, the lining, and theoutside layer in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 8, the feedingmechanism of the machine engaging the outside layer I. inasmuch as thelocking thread which is laid upon the outside layer is of lesser tensionthan the tension upon the needle thread the operator can so manipulatethe parts in opposition to the feed to assemble the parts together witha greater fullness in the outside layer both lengthwise and transverselytherebfy providing a construction which will resist outward and upwardcurling of the points in the sides of the collar.

The collar parts thus assembled may be secured to a suitable band whichin turn may be secured to the shirt in the usual manner.

'I'he collar band 9 desirably is formed of an outside member, an insidemember, and a lining, the members being secured together by gatheringstitches of the character above described in order to provide a greaterfullness in the member of the band which lies adjacent to the innersection of the collar.

The band may then be attached to the open upper edges of the inside andoutside collar members by a hemmed seam. In thus securing the band tothe collar gathering stitches are again employed for progressivelycontracting the band from the ends of the collar toward the centerthereof thereby to cause the collar to maintain a proper curvature whenpermanently attached to the shirt band or buttoned upon it. The

collar band projects a shorter distance from the ends of the collarmembers I and 2 than in usual constructions and is provided withsuitable buttonholes In so located that when the collar il buttoned theupper edges I I of the collar will abut or lie in very close proximitythereby enabling the collar to present a better appearance when wornthan collars heretofore constructed. This is particularly important inconnection with the collar construction which prevents concave outwardcurvature of the ends and sides of the collar.

A modied form of reeneforcement for the collar is illustrated in Fig. l0which illustrates the lining 3 (Fig. 4) having stitched to it areenforcement V4 but in addition provided with strips of tape I2 and I3which respectively overlie the end and lower edges of the reenforcementand are secured thereto by lines of stitching I4 and l5.

By reason of the construction above described the parts of the collarare secured in permanently assembled relation which will permit repeatedlaunderings of the collar without relative displacement of any of theparts thereof and which will maintain such greater fullness of the facesection of the collar as to avoid the tendency to curl which isprevalent in usual types of collars.

It will be understood that the particular embodiment of the inventiondisclosed herein is of an illustrative character and is not restrictiveand that modifications in style, construction and in the method ofassembling the parts of the collar together may be made as are withinthe knowledge and scope of those skilled in the art within the meaningand scope of the following claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new, and desiredto be secured by Letters Patent, is:

1. A fabricated ccuar for shirts comprising an -outside face section anda complementary inside section of substantially shorter length andsubstantially narrower width than the face section stitched thereto inparallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edges by a lockstitch seam of gathering stitches in which the locking thread lies onthe outside of the face section and the greater tension of the needlethread causes such fullness in the face section as to prevent the sideand corner portions of the collar from concavely curving outwardly.

2. A fabricated collar for shirts comprising an outside face section anda complementary inside section of substantially shorter length andsubstantially narrower width than the face section stitched thereto inparallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edges by a lockstitch seam of gathering stitches in which the locking thread lies onthe outside of the face section and the greater tension of the needlethread causes such fullness in the face section as to prevent the sideand corner portions of the collar from concavely curving outwardly, anda collar band having an outside section, a lining and an inside sectionseamed together by like gathering stitches acting progressively on theinside section between the center of the upper edge of the band and theends thereof maintain proper curvature of the collar and insure properfitting thereof on the shirt band.

lining of substantially equal area to that of the inside section bastedthereto in parallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edgesthereof, a fabric reenforcement complementary to said lining of narrowwidth and approximately one-third of the length of the lining andsubstantially equally spaced from the ends and edges thereof andstitched to said lining by a lock stitch seam of gathering stitchesparallel to and in proximity to the edgesv of said reenforcement, and alock stitch seam securing said inside section to said face section andto said lining along the ends and lower edges thereof in properly spacedrelation to said edges in which the locking thread lies on the facesection and the greater tension of the needle thread produces suchfullness in the outer section as to prevent the collar from concavelycurving outwardly.

4. A fabricated collar for shirts comprising an outside face section, acomplementary lining of substantially equal area basted thereto inparallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edges thereof, afabric reenforcement complementary to said lining of narrow width andapproximately one-third of the length of the lining and substantiallyequally spaced fror; the ends and edges thereof, a narrow tape parallelto and partly overlying the end and lower edge of said reenforcement,lines of gathering stitching adjacent to the respective edges of saidtape and reenforcement securing said tape and reenforcement to saidlining, and an inside section secured to said face section and liningalong the ends and lower edge thereof in properly spaced relationthereto by a lock stitch seam of gathering stitches with the lockingthread lying on the face of the outside section.

5. Steps in the method of fabricating a collar for shirts which comprisecutting an outside face section, cutting a complementary inside sectionof substantially shorter length and narrower width, basting the innersection to the outer sec--y tion along and adjacent to the lower edgesthereof while progressively stretching the inner section, folding thesections along said basted edge, hemming together the ends of saidsections and securing the sections together by a seam of lock stitchgathering stitches in parallelism with and in suitable proximity to saidends and lower edge having the locking thread lying on the outside ofthe face section and the greater tension of the needle thread acting toprovide such fullness in the outer face section relatively to the innersection as will prevent the collar from concavely curving outwardly.

6. Steps in the method of fabricating a collar for shirts which comprisecutting an outside face section, cutting a lining of equal area andbasting it to said face section in proximity to the end and lower edgethereof, cutting a complementary inside section of substantially shorterlength and narrower width, basting the inner section to the outersection along and adjacent to the lower edges thereof whileprogressively stretching the inner section, folding the sections alongsaid basted edge, hemming together the ends of said sections andsecuring the sections together by a loclgstitch seam in which thelocking thread lies on the outer face of the collar in parallelism withand in suitable proximity to said ends and lower edge with the tensionof the needle thread acting to provide such fullness in the outer facesection relatively to the inner section as will prevent the collar fromconcavely curving outwardly.

'7. Steps in the method of fabricating a collar for shirts whichcomprise cutting an outside face section, cutting a lining of equal areaand basting it to said face section in proximity to the end and loweredge thereof, cutting a complementary inside section of substantiallyshorter length and narrower Width, basting the inner section to theouter section along and adjacent to the lower edges thereof whileprogressively stretching the inner section, folding the sections alongsaid basted edge, hemming together the ends of said sections andsecuring the sections together by a lock stitch seam in which thelocking thread lies on the outer face of the collar in parallelism withand in suitable proximity to said ends and lower edge with the greatertension of the needle thread acting to providel greater fullness in theface section than in the lining and inside section, securing a band tothe upper edges of said face and inner sections by like gatheringstitches and so manipulating the respective sections during thestitching as progressively to decrease the contraction of the gatheringstitches from the respective ends of the band toward the center thereof.

HARRY GLEEKMAN.

